Handleiding Nintendo 3DS Open Maken

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Benieuwd naar het interne gedeelte van de Nintendo 3DS? Met deze handleiding kunt u de Nintendo 3DS openen. Deze handleiding kunt u ook gebruiken als u (een deel van) de Nintendo 3DS moet vervangen. De handleiding is gemaakt door iFixit en is door ons vertaald. Alle credits gaan naar iFixit.

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Stap 1 — Nintendo 3DS Teardown

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Stap 2

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Stap 3

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Stap 6

  • A couple of Phillips screws are all that stand in the way of us and the precious.
  • Unlike previous DS consoles, the entire back cover of the 3DS comes off as one piece rather than having a small door to access the battery. This makes for a cleaner look, but also means that replacing the battery will take a little longer.
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Stap 7

Haal de onderkant van de case en leg deze weg. Haal daarna de batterij uit de Nintendo 3DS. Gebruik hiervoor een plastic tool. Steek deze tussen de case en de batterij, wip de batterij iets omhoog en haal deze er uit.

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Stap 8

Haal de stylus uit de Nintendo 3DS.

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Stap 9

Nu gaan we alle schroeven uit de achterkant halen. Vergeet ook niet de kleine schroef boven het slot-1 kaartslot te halen.

Vervolgens tillen we de onderkant iets omhoog. Doe dit voorzichtig, de onderkant zit met nog 2 flatcables voor de schouderknoppen vast aan het moederbord.

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  • The Wi-Fi board can easily be removed from the motherboard with a plastic opening tool.
  • After disconnecting its singular antenna, it is free from the 3DS.
  • The back of the board has a sticker labeled Mitsumi DWM-W028, but at its heart lies an Atheros AR6014 IC for 802.11 b/g connectivity.
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Stap 11

  • Moving on, the miniscule IR board can be pried off the board next.
  • Nobody is really certain what the infrared port on the 3DS will do just yet, but we’re thinking it’s for some 3DS to 3DS line-of-sight communication.
  • The IR controller IC is manufactured by NXP and has the markings:
    • S750 0803 TSD031C
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  • The bottom of the Circle Pad and SD card slot sit side-by-side and come out with little effort.
  • This is the first time a Nintendo handheld console has had directional buttons other than the D-pad, whereas the Sony PSP has featured an analog joystick since its debut in late 2004.
  • A 2 GB SD card comes standard with the 3DS, and can easily be upgraded to a larger capacity SD or SDHC card, an important option if you plan on snapping lots of 3D photos and purchasing games from the Nintendo eShop.
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Stap 13

  • Removing the remaining pesky screws securing the motherboard to the lower case.
  • Motherboard almost out…this looks kinda familiar…
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Stap 14

  • Chips we’ve found inside the 3DS motherboard (click here for high-res version):
    • Nintendo 1048 0H ARM CPU
    • Fujitsu MB82M8080-07L
    • Toshiba THGBM2G3P1FBAI8 2 GB NAND Flash
    • Texas Instruments PAIC3010B 0AA37DW
    • UC CTR 041KM73 KG10
    • Invensense ITG-3270 MEMS Gyroscope
    • ST Micro 2048 33DH X1MAQ Accelerometer Model LIS331DH
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Stap 15

  • The back of the motherboard is a little less exciting:
    • TI 93045A4 OAAH86W
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Stap 16

  • The lower LCD assembly lifts out without any trouble.
  • The 2.42″ x 1.81″ LCD with 320 x 240 pixel resolution is capable of displaying 16.77 million colors.
  • The digitizer on the bottom display is much thicker than those found on most cellphones, most likely due to the fact that the touch display is used with a stylus, rather than a fingertip.
  • Also, the lower microphone can be pulled out of the case at this point.
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Stap 17

  • Whereas older versions of the DS had four rubber screw covers on the front display bezel, Nintendo opted for a sleeker approach for their new system by adhering a front panel to the bezel to hide the screws.
  • A little bit of help from a heat gun and a plastic opening tool gives us fairly easy access to the upper display.
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Stap 18

  • The rear bezel lifts off the display after removing six Phillips screws to reveal the speakers, Wi-Fi antenna, and upper LCD.
  • To continue the disassembly, we have to separate the hinges and do a bunch of cringe-inducing threading of ribbon cables through the hollow hinges.
    • Threading the upper display and camera cables through the tiny hinge tube is something that Nintendo undoubtedly accomplishes by the use of robotic machinery.
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Stap 19

  • All three cameras are connected together via one ribbon cable. We’re finding this to be a trend amongst the smaller multiple-camera devices, and it makes sense — the info needs to go to the same place to be processed.
  • It’s official — this is the most camera-laden device we’ve ever taken apart.
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  • The stereo speaker assembly provides the tight bass and crisp highs adequate, tinny sounds people have come to expect from portable devices.
  • These speakers play more than just game sounds; the Nintendo 3DS is compatible with both MP3 and AAC files, but we doubt it will be replacing anyone’s iPod in the foreseeable future.
  • The speaker assembly ribbon cable also contains the 3D field of view adjustment slider and the dual camera status LED.
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Stap 21

  • After removing the speakers, the top LCD module comes right out.
  • There’s three cable connectors for this LCD — to display the image, as well as for the parallax barrier that gives the “3D” effect in the 3DS’ games.
  • Our friends over at Nikkei Electronics’ Tech-On disassembled the LCD panel a little bit further than we did, finding six discrete optical elements.
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Stap 22

  • Nintendo 3DS Repairability Score: 5 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair)
  • The battery is easily swappable by removing the back cover.
  • No proprietary Tri-Wing screws were used, just Phillips #00.
  • The top display’s cables are routed in such a way that it makes them quite frustrating to remove without ripping them off, and just as difficult to re-seat properly during device reassembly.
  • There’s tons of little components inside the 3DS, which may potentially cause problems if you happen to lose one while performing a repair.
  • The majority of connectors are ZIF, and it’s difficult to ensure each one is connected properly without reassembling the whole thing and starting up the device.
  • The headphone jack and charging connector are soldered to the motherboard, meaning you need to take out your soldering iron if you accidentally break them.
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